Thursday, December 11, 2008

Warm, southeast, the full range of the french, beaches, and new good friends.


I had a long bus journey when I left Bangalore and headed to Chennai (can you believe a long bus ride in India) Luckily for me the bus wasn't very full and it rained a good part of the way which was actually quite pleasant as I watched the change of surroundings heading to the coastal city of Chennai. What I found out was that it had rained the previous few days in Chennai causing floods throughout the city and making it a hell for people living in the slums; destroying there foods, wetting everything in their homes and encouraging the rat population. When I arrived I heard a girl dealing with a rickshaw driver and agreeing to pay way too much. I stepped in and helped (me, helping an Indian with the bargaining of a price) She was thankful and offered to share the ride and then when we arrive at her place she would drive me on her bike around to get a hotel room which she did. A few days later I met with her for a home made lunch which was just great!!


One day I went sight seeing to get a feel for Chennai. There is a common thing that goes on in big cities where a rickshaw driver will take you on a long tour of sights for fairly cheap as long as you will go and look in a couple of shops. They are hoping that you buy something which will end up being much more for them in commission. Many people apparently have the mind set to go into the shop and just look and then spend their money. Little did he know that his chances of me buying something were not too good (this means 0, nothing, not gonna happen). But I did get to visit sights for about 3 hours including the Marina beach which is the 2nd longest in the world. It is also disgustingly filthy, nobody swims in this water. Then the visiting of temples, churches, etc...

I was curious to see a slum, so I was brought to a fishing village slum. He waited in the rickshaw and I meandered through the little alleys. I asked this man above if it was alright if I walked down one alley and he continued to take me down that alley, show me his home, his family, his neighbors and a full tour of the slum which was wonderful; the tour, not the slum, although everyone was extremely happy and nice. It is said that fishing slums have a big drinking problem towards the afternoons, I was visiting early afternoon and the man that showed me around doesn't drink or even eat meat, including fish.

This was one of the churches on tour that is one of the most famous churches in India because some high ranking person is buried under an alter. My facts on this are not with me at the moment.
This is Veera and his cousin who you will hear more about later. I met Veera briefly early on in my trip while in a restaurant in Varanasi. He told me to let him know when I would be in Chennai because that is where he lives. We met up for dinner and he took me to an unbelievable restaurant and forced me to eat until I could barely stay awake and would not let me pay for anything...ever. His cousin smiles a lot!!
Starting in Chennai to now I have been a busy little bee as far as work goes, meeting with people and seeing places, hotels, sites. I also met a woman who I will be working with, Gouthami, in Chennai who had me over to her house for a home cooked meal.
From Chennai I went south to Malaburipuram. This is when I started to realize that many places, especially in the south had two names. Some maps and signs on the street say Malamalapuram. There town is small and on the beach and is swarming with tourists. The way the locals act and talk you know they are used to dealing with laid back tourists and know the right things to say. After a full day of visiting hotels and seeing the little city I decided to do a day of nothing; this was because Veera was going to come down the following morning (his saturday off) and spend the day.
We got pool passes at a nice hotel and spent half the day relaxing by the pool, eating, drinking and swimming. That night after dinner we met up with our hotel neighbor, Sandra (a columbian yoga teacher). The three of us walked the beach and enjoyed the fire work show due to a wedding down the beach.
The next morning his cousin showed up and we visited a few of the other sites in the town that I hadn't seen including this one. I really like this photo. Then the 3 of us and Sandra headed a little north to a beach where Veera's family owns a prawn farm on the water. We spent time on the beach swimming and just relaxing (I scared some local kids by chasing them and when I caught them threatening to take them in the water). We then headed back to the building where the people who work for his family made us possibly the best meal I've had since being in India; home made fried fish with seasoning that is making my mouth water as I write, some great chicken and a rice mix that we add a onion/yogurt salad too. Veera and his cousin were beyond hospitable and just good people. I know that I will be friends with him for a long time to come.
Veera and his cousin then headed back to Chennai and Sandra and myself headed south to a place called Auroville. This place is an international city built in India. It is intended as a moneyless society. You will have to research on your own for now if you want to know more. Inside this huge area they have no public buses, you must have a motorbike which we didn't know. After walking around for quite some time we grabbed lunch which we paid someone cash to let us swipe their card (remember, moneyless). This is the monument at the center of Aroville and is the focus point for meditation.
It then started to pour. We were a long way for where we wanted to be and any rides and the rain wasn't going to let up for some time. I concentrated no a plan and then stuck my thumb out on the road. A fifties british car drove by and then hit the breaks and a big head with a british accent stuck his head out of the back door and asked where we were going and I said anywhere, so we jumped in and it turned out we weren't going where he was going. He had a meeting and then after the meeting we were still waiting for another car so he (Kenny) said to get in and he would drop us off after we stopped by his house. While waiting in the rain a guy walked by completely covered in rain gear from head to toe and had a smile like he enjoyed the rain, so I said "it looks like you are having fun in this rain". He turned to me and with a french accent said "I have never met you, why are you talking to me?"
Don't worry, for each of those there is a Kenny. We stopped at Kenny's where we met a girl who was staying there who apparently was stranded a couple days before and Kenny helped out and gave a place too. As it continued to rain outside we all sat around listening to music, singing, painting, drinking beer, and more music, more beer, more talking and better friends. We ended up crashing there and heading out the next morning. I could write a mini book about Kenny and the stories he told. In the end, he is a good guy and was a great host and has moved to this place a couple of months ago to spend the rest of his time with his own home-stay that specializes in ayurvedic treatments; someone I will work with also.
Next morning on our rainy drive into Pondicherry.
Some girls who we had met a couple days before gave us their number in case we come into Pondicherry and wanted to meet for dinner. We did, and at our table sat me, from the US. Someone from Columbia, Holland, a real nice girl from french and then we called a girl over who was sitting at a table alone who was from Spain...it was like the UN.
Below is the streets of Pondicherry inside the French quarter.

I can't believe how big the damn sea shells are in this city!!!!!!


We walked around the big markets which had tons and tons of flowers, fruits, vegetables, fish, clothing, really anything.

If any of you have listened to the comedian Mitch Hedgeberg than you will appreciate this picture below of the red bananas. If you don't know him than maybe you will still like the picture of red bananas.

We stayed in a fantastic home-stay in Pondicherry where there are only five rooms and the family that runs it is extremely nice and beyond helpful. They too lived in Paris for 30 years and were beyond nice... just that damn raingear wearing frenchie.

This homestay I will definately send people too on my tours. They are completely booked for the rest of December and January.

I headed south on my own from Pondicherry and was trying to go to one place but ended up in a nearby town where there were NO tourists around and eating in the local restaurant this was my view while I was eating; everyone looking at me like "he eats food just like us, can you believe it?"
Since then I have been to two more cities, am now in the third, drove a car, ate a free lunch, and am getting close to running out of clean shirts and underwear.
I have seen quite a bit of rain in the last 2 weeks...actually not that much, but only compared to the rest of the time I have been here. When it rains a lot in the US it is a little of an inconvenience; it is crazy to see how heavily it impacts so many's lives here, more so there livelihood that just their feel for the day.
I want to see slum dog millionaire, I have gotten a few emails about it.

I have read since being here:
Grapes of Wrath
Five point something
Unbound India
White Tiger- Such a great read. This is a book I wouldn't want the people I send on tour to read before, it really shows the "dark side" of India.
I am now reading Sacred Games-another Indian book.
Ciao

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