Wednesday, November 29, 2006

# 35 More to come

Hey,
I don't have time to write an update but it willl be coming soon. I am in Tanzania now and have had some great times up to now.
The sound of the ocean isn't just in the shell, it is in anything that is enclosed near your ear. At 26 I just realised this and it is very dissapointing.
Other than that everything is great.

Friday, November 24, 2006

#34 Through Zambia and now into Malawi

After leaving Vic Falls we crossed over into Zambia and headed towards Lake Kariba where we boarded a houseboat for a couple of days. Once we were in the middle of the lake we were allowed to jump off the roof of the boat. Crocs don't tend to be in the middle of the lake, they are genarally near the shore which seemed to be the case for our experience as well. It was a very relaxing couple of days where we got to know the other people on our tour, catch some sun, fish a little and enjoy the scenery of the neighboring islands. At night if we didn't want to sleep in our rooms we could pull our mattress to the roof and sleep under the stars. I have never seen so many stars in my life, it was fantastic to fall asleep gazing at them only to wake up in the morning to the sunrise over the lake.

The next couple of days consisted mostly of driving and stopping for short breaks in little towns and villages. All along the roads there are the little (what we would call one bedroom huts) homes of these people who would get real excited as we drove by and waved. Little kids especially would scream and sprint towards the road to greet us with a wave or whistle as we drove by. Watching them it seems that they spend the morning doing all of the hard work in the fields or going to collect what they need for the day or week and then once the heat from the sun sets in they try to stay cool under the shade or take care of less energy consuming chores. It is the most basic life compared to our standards but it just amazes me all the time to see them so happy about everything.

One afternoon when we arrived at our campsite Egg and I decided to walk towards the nearest village which we were told was quite far away. We never did make it to the village but the entire time we walked we had company. Local people walking along with us or riding their bikes along with us to ask us questions about our lives and to happily answer questions about there life or teach us some of the local language. Some little kids just want to shake our hands or show off there little brothers or sisters. Most people don't have cars and there isn't too much public transportation so all along the streets are masses of people walking and people on bikes who carry more on their bikes than I could fit in my car.

Egg, German (Jamie) and I just realised that yesterday on thanksgiving was also one month that we've been traveling together (and they haven't killed me yet).
Oh yeah, HAPPY THANKGIVING to everyone!! Most of the world have no idea what Thanksgiving is. We just arrived today into Malawi which is one of the poorest countries in the world. We head to Lake Malawi which takes up about a quarter of the countries space.

I try to explain what I do and see but it is so often quite hard to put my feelings of these places and the people and feel of the communities into words.
I still have not had any type of connection to put up pictures but will let you know when I do.


The life I touch for good or ill will touch another life, and that in turn another, until who knows where the trembling stops or in what far place my touch will be felt.
-Frederick Beuchner

Sunday, November 19, 2006

#33 One of the 7 natural wonders of the world and time to switch tour groups.

Some info about the falls I went to see all of yesterday.
The Victoria Falls or Mosi-oa-Tunya are situated on the Zambezi River, on the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe, (17°55′1″S, 25°51′0″E) and are roughly 1.7 km (1 mile) wide and 128 m (420 ft) high. They are considered a remarkable spectacle because of the peculiar narrow slot-like chasm into which the water falls, so one can view the falls face-on.
Victoria is the largest single sheet of water in the world , over 100 metres tall, and over one mile wide
The falls are extremely broad at about 1.7 km across, and the height of the cascade varies from 80 m at the right bank to 108 m in the centre. This makes Victoria roughly twice the height of Niagara Falls, and well over twice the width of the horseshoe falls (Niagara's main portion). The falling water generates spray and mist that rises typically to a height of over 400 metres (and sometimes even twice as high), and is visible from up to 50 km (over 30 miles) away. At full moon, a "moonbow" can be seen in the spray instead of the daylight rainbow.
During the wet season the falls have over 500 million litres (19 million cubic feet) of water falling over its crestline each minute, and spray from this rises hundreds of metres into the air because of the incredible force of the falling water.

It was absolutely fantastic to see this wonder. The water is low right now and still you get soaked walking a fair distance aways from the falls due to the pressure of the falls. They were so beautiful and like a lot of other parts of the world they didn't have security everwhere or tall fences up (in fact they had no fences or anything at all near the cliff) so you felt like it was just you and this amazing thing in the middle of nowhere.

Before we got to Vic falls we where in another city where we did the rhino trek for the day and got drenched. It turned out that we could upgrade at this place from our tent to a bed in a dorm room for the price of $1. Still some people didn't take it. Me, it was one of the best dollars I've ever spent. The owner of this place was also a massage therapist so for $10 I got a 45 minute sports massage.

Our first day arriving in Vic Falls we went out to a restaurant with our group and had a buffet style meal where I got to eat ostrich, warthog and kudu (similar to a deer, but much better meat). We also got to see a bunch of different local dances accompanied by singing. I loved this and got called up to dance during one of them (I think I held my ground) Later that night we visited a local bar/club that had live music and our group (the only white people in there) danced the night away with the locals.
I got to spend a bit more time with Gift, who calls me steveini and teaches me some of the local language. We went out to lunch along with Egg (Erin) and had some local food where you eat with your hands which I quite enjoy.

For the next 20 days or so Jamie, Egg and I join a new bus crew and so get to meet all new people for the next leg of the trip up to Nairobi.

It amazes me how friendly everyone is here and it's not just to us because we our tourists with money or since we are white and stand out in a crowd but just watching them among each other there is a happy kindness that I haven't experienced anywhere else.

It is also strange to be in a city with tons of people around while baboons just wander through the streets, on top of buildings and are just there but don't really get in the way of the people.

In this part of the world when you are talking to someone about doing something such as "when will you be here to pick me up?" they could respond "just now" when they say just now it means that it could be anytime after at least 2 hours and could be as late as months from now.
To the same question they could also respond "now, now"
when they say this it means anytime from now until usually about the latest being 2 hours from now.

Live as if your were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to live forever. -- Gandhi

Thursday, November 16, 2006

#32 Animals-the big ones, the real africa and an interesting collection of people on the big yellow bus-truck

High speed internet and internet in general isn't in much of africa.
There has been a crapload to happen since the last entry and I can't even remember it all so I will give you the highlights.
Erin, Jamie and I just bumbed around cape town for the last day until we flew into Joberg where we met our group of 19 people to join us in a overland safari from Joberg, South Africa through Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. There are people of all ages from many different coutries.
Our first stop was at Kruger Park. We did a night drive when we got there and saw giraffes, buffalo, baby jackals, baboons and lots of different types of deer type animals. This night also began our month long of sleeping in tents and waking up before 6 every morning to get on the road (we have lots of ground to cover) or start the days activities. The following day we spent the whole day in the park where we saw more of the same along with elephants, zebra, hippoes, rhino, a leapard and the king of the wild, the lion. It was such a great experience and cool thing to see out there in this park that is the size of belgium. (that's right, belgium=kruger-waffles+cool animals) We spent a majority of the next few days driving and stopping in small cities along the way which I really enjoyed since it gave me a chance to talk with the locals. In this time we also saw the 2nd largest canyon in africa, the great zimbabwe ruins where back in the day the king had 250 wifes (I don't even know 250 girls). We camped one night at a place that had a swimming pool that overlooked a cliff with valleys and mountains as far as the eye could see.

I have a small bladder. That and the fact that I drink a lot of water doesn't go over so well when you are always on the road in a vehicle with no bathroom although we can stop any time it's needed. I truly go like 10 times a day. I don't know who I inherited this from but it really disturbs the day especially when you can't get out because there may be lions or other animals near.

We stayed a couple nights at a place called antelope park (I'm sure you could read about it online). When we arrived and set up our tents there were elephants swimming in the river that wasn't 50 meters from us (150 ft, ps-no one in the rest of the world uses ft) This place is famous for saving orphaned lions and breeding them to release them back into the wild since the population number has decreased unbelievably. During our time there I went and played with lion cubs, saw the larger lions and the breeding program and walked with lions one morning to see how they are out and about with other animals around. Some of us also did a carriage ride that went around the park where we could get an upclose look at animals, we saw wildbeasts, zebra and vultures eating a dead cow.(vultures don't eat skin so if a cow hasn't been killed with insides already showing the vultures starts to eat it by going in through the anus and eating the insides-I know that's nasty)
Today we went on a rhino tracking where we looked for footprints and other clues to help us figure out which way to go and then we ended up about 30 ft from them on foot.(they are huge-weighing around 2 tons) Our group decided to go with the guide who had the open top truck and so when it rained on us there wasn't a damn thing we could do except get soaked to the bone and freeze for the next few hours.

Meals have been good, our cook Gift is from Zimbabwe and is the nicest guy in the world who calls me steveini. Some of the group call me Sir-eat-a-lot.
I have been able to make mixes and play my Ipod in the yellow submarine which as you can imagine I've been quite happy about.

We had a day where we went to a little market to buy things and the people wanted everything we had. (I traded the shirt off my back for something) This is because in Zimbabwe it is so hard for people to get stuff they want anything. They asked for Erin's hairtie right from her hair and were so happy when they got it.(It makes you think about the fact that we get tired of our clothes so quick and can just easily go to a store to buy anything we want. The houses many of them live in are just little one room huts. I can't really explain how I feel about it but it's a different world then I've ever seen. We traded some US dollars for zimbabwe money and at the bank we would get 250 for $1 but on the black market we get 1500 for $1 since no other countries will accept zimbabwe money.

This has been such a great experience so far and I will try to update as much as possible. I can't put the pictures up here and don't know when I will get a chance but as soon as I do I will let you know.

Sunday, November 05, 2006

#31 Bungee, Canoing, Ostriches and the end of the road trip.



216 meters= about 640 ft. This is the hight of the highest commercial bungee jump in the world that I did after I wrote the last blog. Driving there was the scariest part but then when I had in my mind I was going to do it I quite enjoyed it because I figured I live or I die and since I'm writing this you know the outcome. The two girls joined me as well and were nicknamed the BB's (bridge buddies), which we found pretty funny. It was quite a long way to free fall until the bungee kicked in.
Later that day Erin went paragliding to test her luck with life and after 45 minutes in the air and the guide on her back not being able to land where he wanted they ended up in a cow pasture and had to jump an electrical fence. We all decided that was enough excitement for the night and headed back to the ocean side backpacker to relax for the evening next to a bonfire.
The next morning the sun was shining and we headed out for our next adventure. We stocked a cooler with food and drinks for the night and jumped in canoes leaving our car behind. We had about a 2 hour ride paddling canoes to get to our cabin in the woods that was only accessible by canoes. We thought we would get a little sun and take our time but as we took off the clouds began to appear and after a short time the rain began. We pulled over to the side of the river to wait for a while under trees hoping to stay dry and keep our stuff dry. When the rain finally slowed we headed off again and not more then 10 minutes went by before we had to hurry and look for another pull off spot. This time, wet and cold and sitting under a tree we decided to make a concoction with our drinks. After a half an hour or so with our blood warm and full of energy we decided to push on through to the cabin. When we got there we were not dissapointed one bit. It was a beautiful wooden cabin with a big clean room, an outdoor kitchen with gas stove and a huge deck with a bonfire pit in the middle. First thing was first, I headed out with the axe there to paul bunyan some of the wooden stumps (Jamie took some pictures but it came to an end when the pieces of wood flew off and hit her). After we made dinner, got a roaring fire going and made some drinks we sat in our chairs with blankets and let the night fade into oblivion.
The next morning after finishing too much alcohol the last thing we wanted to do was get back in the canoes and paddle our way back (this time against the current and wind). There were many times that I contimplated living in the woods for the rest of my life or throwing my paddle overboard so I had to choice but to wait for help. When we finally made it back we got some chinese and headed back to our hostel (same one which we planned on staying one night and instead stayed 4) and slept and took it easy the rest of the day.
The next morning after I ate 9 eggs along with 6 tomatoes, a carton of mushrooms, half an onion and a block of cheese (needless to say Erin and Jamie do not approve of my traveling eating habits) and saying goodbye to the owners, Johanne and Annelle we headed off for a full day of driving. Our first stop was in a city known for raising ostriches. Our goal: to ride them. I was too heavy to ride them and I can't tell you in words how upset this made me. The girls refused to on account that they had to do a walking tour about the ostriches life before riding them; that and they are a bit freaked out by the bird that has a bigger eye than brain. Our next stop was to visit the famous local caves. This is by far the worse tour of anything I have ever done. Granted, it was the woman's first group she has taken but really, everytime she spoke I would have preferred that she was punching me in the face and I'm quite sure the rest of the group would have enjoyed it more as well.
We (I) then drove for the next 6 hours through some of the most beautiful country and scenery I have ever seen. One part of the drive was on small roads in the mountains that I was admiring when Jamie very calmly said "well, steve" and pointed at the car coming right at us since I was in there lane. After swerving out of the way my heart was pounding as the girl went back to talking about whatever it was they were talking about before our near death collision.
We finally arrived on the west coast and found a farm that was a backpacker/kennel. (seriously, I took a picture). Then the main mission was to get the girls food; they were upset that I didn't stop to let them eat for like 10 hours. Exhausted, we were awoken at around 4 am to roosters, barking dogs and any other kind of animal you would not want to wake up to. They continued through the whole morning which is when we decided to get up and get the hell out of there. We then had to decide on what to do for the day; mountain bike or go relax on the beach. So after our day (you guessed right) hanging out at the beach we went to a small fishing village nearby to treat ourselves to a delicious dinner at a restaurant on the water. I had some of the best fish of my life, called angel fish. We then went to our new hostel to get a good night sleep periodically waking up to the neighbors barking dogs.
Our last day with the rental car we took off back towards cape town and went to see the cape of good hope which is this southern point that has hikes where you can look over cliffs at the ocean. This day while driving along the bays we stopped at one beach that had tons of penguins everywhere. ( I didn't know penguins were in warm areas, they have it much better than the ones in march of the penguins). We also saw maybe 10 whales or so and they were very active, doing flips, waving there tails and fins and blowing water everywhere; one even waved to me, I called him sam; he was my favorite. Not only that but they were so close to shore that it was very easy to see them; we nicknamed it whale heaven.

People in south africa say "is it?" as we would say "really?" or something
for example
I would say " I had a great time last night, the people were real cool"
their response: "is it?"
This really bothers me for some reason but also makes me laugh at the same time.

if you want to check out the backpackers we stayed at on the ocean for like $15 a night the website is: www.buffalobaybackpackers.com the pictures are great.

We spent last night with the masai warrior, Miyere at his barbeque. I will still write a blog about him. I am going to his village outside of kenya when I get there and he informed me that I will be the first white person many of them have ever seen.

oh yeah. I woke up the other morning to a guy standing above me in his boxers. When I jumped and yelled at him what he was doing, he told us that we were in his beds and when I finally realised where he was supposed to be I pointed him in the right direction back to his room; ahh alcohol. After a short time later I got up to go to the bathroom and when I opened the door after going there was a black cat in our room in front of me. Luckily it went out without too much of a fight but it was too late I was freaked out.

Today we did nothing but ride a train to go to a beach that was too windy to be able to lie there. None the less, not a bad day, I learned a new language.

"I don't live the way I do to escape life, I live this way so life doesn't escape me"

It is my brother Mark's 21st birthday today, so mark, happy birthday!!!

We fly to Joberg tomorrow and on wednesday morning head out on our 32 day bus trip from Joberg to Nairobi.
If you would like to see the itinerary you can go to:
http://www.overlandafrica.com/tours_temp.asp?TourNo=212

3 months have already passed and it is amazing to me how much I have seen and experienced and how many great people I have met. It is very encouraging for the rest of my trip.
thank you to those who read this and write to me, I really do appreciate it.